Crate training is something that all dog owners should consider doing, even for the most well-behaved dogs who are free to roam in the house. Why? Well, this can best be explained through one of our volunteers and her dog, Cooper.
When traveling with their dog Cooper, they have a set routine: arrive at the destination, go on a short walk for a potty break, fill up his water bowl, and then set up his crate in an out-of-the-fray but easily accessible location, usually near their own bed.
Cooper, for his part, pees, laps up some water, enters his crate, spins around a few times to make sure everything is to his liking, and then joins our volunteer wherever they happen to be to supervise any human shenanigans.
While some pet owners worry that a crate is a prison of sorts, Cooper clearly views his crate as his own private sanctuary — a great escape, if you will.
Over the years, visiting family for noisy holiday celebrations or going on weekend trips to the mountains, Cooper used his crate as a get-away when he had had enough of the laughter and kids running around or simply needed a nap after a strenuous hike. Many evenings, he would disappear and “put himself to bed” in the crate to the delight of his owner’s friends.
In addition to the benefits Cooper obviously derived from his crate, it can be an effective tool to help with house-training your puppy or dog and prevent destructive behavior when you are not around. It can also prepare your dog for the day they may need to be crated for travel or after a vet visit that requires rest and recuperation. Already being accustomed to a crate will make these last two occasions less stressful for your pet and you.
With all the advantages of crate training, it’s important to note the exceptions. First and foremost, a crate should NEVER be used as a form of punishment. The goal is for the crate to be a safe, comfortable, and even happy location for your pet. Using it to punish your dog with solitary confinement will undermine this goal and confuse your pet.
A crate is also not a substitution for good general training – being stuck in a crate all day will NOT somehow miraculously teach your dog what is acceptable behavior or to not potty in the house.
Last, there are dogs who suffer from a medical condition called separation anxiety. It can be quite severe and crating these dogs can even result in them hurting themselves in an attempt to get out.
Signs of separation anxiety include: nervously pacing or following you around as you get ready to leave the house, excessive salivating, whining, and trying to leave with you. Your pet may also begin barking incessantly immediately or shortly after you leave and become destructive, often by trying to “escape” at doors and windows.
If you are attempting to crate train your dog and they exhibit signs of separation anxiety, you should immediately stop and get professional help from a vet or trainer to determine if they have separation anxiety and the best way to proceed from there.
Now that we know what a crate is and is not good for, how do you go about selecting the right one for your dog?
Size matters. A crate should comfortably allow the full-grown adult version of your dog to stand up, turn around, and lay down on their side with legs extended. It should not, however, be so large as to allow your puppy to sleep in one end and poop or pee in the other. That means that 10-pound puppy of yours that is going to be an 80-pound adult will need a crate that can grow with them. You can either use a divider to adjust a larger crate or buy a new crate as they grow.
Style matters. You should consider how you will primarily be using the crate when you decide on the style. As mentioned above, Cooper was a traveling man. They rarely left home without him, so the best style of crate for him was a soft-sided (canvas) one with a collapsible metal frame that could be easily packed and transported. Soft-sided crates are not as sturdy or durable as a wire crate, however, and some dogs do figure out how to un-zip them.
If you plan to set up your crate and leave it in one location at home, you might prefer a wire frame. They tend to be the most durable and the easiest to clean. They are also the heaviest and therefore a little more cumbersome to set up and take down as well as being the most exposed for your dog. To offset this last feature and give your dog a little privacy for a snooze, you can drape a towel or light cover over one end of the crate. Just be sure to allow for plenty of ventilation.
Plastic travel crates are fairly lightweight and can meet cargo requirements for plane travel. They tend to be the most enclosed and dark.
There are also wooden crates that look more aesthetically pleasing and mimic a piece of furniture. Similar to wire crates, you probably don’t want to set them up and take them down frequently as they are heavy and require assembly. Your dog will be styling in a wooden crate but they can also come with a hefty price tag.
Now that you have your dog’s new crate, how do you convince them it is their happy place?
- Start slow. This is a gradual, repetitive process just like all training. It’s going to take time and loving patience.
- Leave the crate open in the early stages. The idea is to get your dog comfortable with walking in and out of the crate unimpeded.
- If your dog is food motivated, throw or place yummy treats just inside the crate. If they are play motivated, you can use a favorite toy. When they poke their head in to get the reward, praise them. This helps them associate the crate with good things. And then repeat it! As they get more comfortable, move the treat or toy farther back in the crate. You can also place their food bowl in the crate in the same manner.
- Once they have become comfortable going in and out of the crate without hesitation, start closing the door for a minute or two when they are inside. Having a favorite chew toy while they are inside can be helpful.
- Gradually increase the time they are inside with the gate shut. You can also leave the room for a minute or two. Giving them a Kong or other puzzle toy stuffed with treats or frozen peanut butter to keep them occupied can help make the crate experience positive.
With patience, positive reinforcement, and repetition, your dog may come to love their new crate!
Here are some final tips to make your dog’s crate experience the best:
- Remove your dog’s collar while they are in the crate. It can become snagged on the frame and choke or cause pain to your dog.
- If your dog doesn’t tend to chew on fabric, place a bed or blanket in the crate so they can be extra comfy.
- Do not place a crate in direct sunlight. It can get hot, especially if slightly covered, and your pet has no escape. They can become overheated or develop heat stroke.
- If you leave your pet in the crate for extended periods during the day, always provide water just as you would if they had free roaming privileges in the house. There are water bowls that attach to wire crates if you are concerned they will knock the bowl over.
- Do not leave your pet in a crate for over 4 hours except at night, when they and you are sleeping. As mentioned previously, crates should not be used to dole out solitary confinement. Dogs are social and need interaction with others and exercise to stay mentally and physically healthy. If you leave them crated while you are at work all day, have someone come to let them out for a break or do it yourself. Mid-day visits with your pet can be incredible up-lifting mental breaks!
- It is OK if your pet sleeps in the crate at night. But for puppies, keep in mind that their little bladders will need to be relieved every few hours. Keep the crate near you as you sleep so you can hear them when they whine. This is their signal to you that they need to go out. They don’t want to soil their beds, so don’t force them to. Take them out as needed until they can sleep through the night. This guidance also pertains to older dogs that may have less control over their bladders and bowels as they age.
